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LOMBOK AND WEST NUSA TENGGARA
The
earliest recorded society on Lombok was relatively small
kingdom of the Sasaks. The Sasak peoples were
agriculturalists and animists who practised ancestor and
spirit worship. The original Sasaks are believed to have
come overland from north-west India or Myanmar (Burma) in
waves of migration that predated most Indonesian ethnic
group.
Few relic remain from the old animist kingdoms, and the
majority of Sasaks today are Muslim, although animism
has left its mark on the culture.
Not much is known about Lombok before the 17th century,
at which time it was split into numerous, frequently
squabbling states each presided over by a Sasak "prince"
- a disunity exploited by the neighboring Balinese.
In the early 17th century, the Balinese from the eastern
state of Karangasem established colonies and took
control of west Lombok. At the same time, the roving
Makassarese crosed the strait from their colonies in
west Sumbawa and established settlements in east Lombok.
This conflict of interests ended with the war of 1677-8,
in which the Makassarese were booted off the island and
east Lombok temporarily reverted to the rule of the
Sasak princes. Balinese control was soon reasserted and
by 1740 or 1750 the whole island was in their hands.
While the Balinese were now the masters of Lombok, the
basis of their control in west and east Lombok was quite
different. In west Lombok, relations between the
Balinese and the Sasaks were relatively harmonious. The
Sasak peasants, who adhered to the mystical Wektu Telu
interpretation of Islam, easily assimilated Balinese
Hinduism, participated in Balinese religious festivities
and worshipped at the same shrines. Intermarriage
between Balinese and Sasaks was common.
The western Sasaks were organised into similar
irrigation associations (subak) that the Balinese used
for wet-rice agriculture. The traditional Sasak village
government, presided over by a chief, was done away with
and the peasants were ruled directly by the rajah or a
land owning Balinese aristocrat.
Things were very different in the east, where the
recently defeated Sasak aristocracy hung in Limbo. Here
the Balinese had to maintain control from garrisoned
forts and, although the traditional village government
remained intact, the village chief was reduced to little
more than a tax collector for the local Balinese
district head (punggawa)
The Balinese ruled like feudal kings, assuming control
of the land from the Sasak peasants and reducing them to
the level of serfs. With their power and land-holdings
slashed, the Sasak aritocracy of eastern Lombok was
hostile to the Balinese. The peasants remained loyal to
their former Sasak rulers, and supported rebellions in
1855, 1871 and 1891.
Lombok lies 8 degrees south of the equator and stretches
some 80km east to west and about the same distance north
to south. It is dominated by the second highest mountain
in Indonesia, GUNUNG RINJANI, which soars to 3726m. It
has a large caldera with a crater lake, Segara Anak,
600m below the rim, and a new volcanic cone which has
formed in the center. Rinjani last erupted in 1994, and
evidence of this can be seen in the fresh lava and
yellow sulphur around the inner cone.
Central Lombok, to the south
of Rinjani is similar to Bali, with rich alluvial plains
and fields irrigated by water flowing from the
mountains. In the far south and east it is drier, with
scrubby, barren hills. This area gets little rain and
often has droughts which can last for months. In recent
years, several dams have been built, so the abundant
rain-fall of the wet season can be retained for
irrigation throughout the year.
In Lombok's dry season - from June to September - the
heat can be scorching. At night, particularly at higher
elevations, the temperature can drop so much a sweater
and light jacket are necessary. The wet season extends
from October and January the wettest months.
The
19th century naturalist Sir Alfred Wallace (1822 -
1913) observe great differences in fauna between Bali
and Lombok - as great as the differences between Africa
and South America. In particular. He postulated that
during the ice ages when sea levels were lower, animals
could have moved by land from what is now mainland Asia all the way to Bali, but the
deep Lombok strait would always have been a barrier.
Thus he drew a line between Bali and Lombok, which he
believed market the biological division between Asia and
Austaralia.
Plant life, on the other hand, does not display such a
sharp division, but there is a gradual transition from
predominantly Asian rainforest species to mostly
Australian plants like eucalypts and acacias, which are
better suited to long dry periods. This is associated
with the lower rainfall as one moves east of Java.
Environmental differences, including those in the
natural vegetation, are now thought to provide a better
explanation of the distribution of animal species than
Wallace's theory about limits to their original
migrations.
M dern bio-geographers do recognize a distinction
between Asian and Australian fauna, but the boundary
between the regions is regarded as much fuzzier than
Wallace's line. This transitional zone between Asia and
Australia is nevertheless referred to as "WALACEA"
Lombok has a population of 2.4 million (1990 census),
with the majority living and around the principal
centers of Mataram, Praya and Selong. Almost 90% of the
people are Sasak, about 10% are Balinese, and there are
minority population of Chinese, Javanese and Arabs.
Most people on Lombok are bilingual, and speak their own
ethnic language (Sasak), as well as the national
language, Bahasa Indonesia, which they are taught at
school and use as their formal and official mode of
communication.
Apart from those working in the tourist industry, few
people on Lombok speaks English, and this includes
police and other officials. Nevertheless, English is
becoming more widely spoken on Lombok
TRAVEL TIPS IN LOMBOK
General Matter
1. Peel the fruit before
eating; avoid raw vegetables except at reputable
restaurants. Ice in restaurants is safe.
2. Drink always from
bottled water and eat well done cooking food, unless
when eating at recommended restaurants/cafes or hotel's
outlet.
3. Street or beach vendors
are often pushing too hard on selling and most visitors
feel inconvenient. Never try to look at any of their
item/s even they might be interesting to you, even this
could be fun for those who want to learn about
bargaining tactic. For most visitors this is hassling.
4. Protect yourself from
the intense equatorial sun. Use sun block and hat.
5. Sexually transmitted
diseases are increasing in Indonesia. Local sex workers
have multiple partners from all over the world. Act
responsibly and use condoms, available over the counter
at pharmacies.
6. Due to the limited
number of flights to Lombok, during the peak season we
highly recommend you to make flight booking far in
advanced. Don't forget to ask your local tour operator
to re-confirm your ticket minimum 24 hours in advanced
to ensure yourself to get seats.
DO’S & DONT’S
It is
always nice to learn a few customs of the area when
visiting a different country. Here are some do’s and
don’ts for an enjoyable trip:
DO’S:
- Use right
hand when eating, accepting or giving anything
- If
offering anything to someone do it more than once if
they refuse.
- Try
eating traditionally and sit on the floor
- Try
wearing a sarong (both men and women)
DONT’S:
- Touch
someone’s head even if you are trying to be friendly or
joking.
- Point
feet at things, use your hands instead.
Tipping:
Tipping is relatively new in Lombok. Most large hotels
and restaurants will automatically add a service charge
of between 5 & 10 percent to your bill which is quite
sufficient. Smaller restaurants generally don't add
anything extra but considering that the waiter's wage
may well be less than $1.00 a day - a tip of 5 - 10
percent is very much appreciated.
Bellmen generally get Rp. 500 - Rp.1,000 for a small to
medium sized luggage and up to Rp.2,000 for those house
trailers some people carry around. For taxi drivers,
rounding up to the nearest Rp. 500 or Rp. 1,000
depending on the length of trip is the norm. And with
tour guides and the like tipping is up to you - just
remember that chances are your driver has already
received a commission from anything you purchased during
the day.
Bargaining
Difficult for many first timers but once you get the
hang of it you’ll never pay retail again! Bargaining is
the norm in Lombok's art markets, trinket and T-shirt
shops. But don’t get cheesy. Nothing is more irritating
nowadays than watching a well clad tourist trying to
squeeze the last 1,000 Rupiah (about 10 US cents) out of
a shopkeeper. Just remember how much it cost to get to
Lombok. So what is the value in not taking home that
beautiful earthenware pot ? Negotiate a good price and
take home a good story.
Street Wise
Lombok's reputation has been sullied as of late since
the economic crises hit Indonesia (staying only in the
tourist enclaves you may not see the hardship this
economic crises has caused the people) and crime has
been on the rise - especially in Southern Lombok (Kuta)
and at Mount Rinjani. Nonetheless that said Lombok is
still far, far safer than most large cities in this
world.
Pick pockets, car break ins and the like seem to be the
most common complaints. To reduce your risk, use plain
common sense and take the same basic precautions you
would if you were visiting any big city. Keep a tight
grip on your purse or camera, Never leave any bags
(whether valuable or not) in your car unattended in your
car, on the beach or by the pool, use the hotel safety
deposit box, don’t go down dark deserted alleys and
don’t count money in the open etc, etc....
On the other hand don't even think of committing a crime
in Indonesia. You are a long way from home with far
fewer rights than you think. Behave yourself and be a
gracious guest.
Outward Bound
On the way out of the hotel, keep a little extra money
handy. All tourists leaving Indonesia from Mataram
International Airport are required to pay an airport tax
of Rp.75,000. That said be advised that it is against
the law to leave Indonesia with more than Rp.
10,000,000. Departure for domestic travel is also taxed
(Rp.10,000) though most of the time this has already
been included in the ticket price - but every once and
awhile you are surprised... (and even if you're not you
can always make a donation to the local Red Cross or
charity du jour).
Bussines Hours
Lombok’s laid back pace of life can frustrate the avid
shopper. Most shops in the major tourist areas have
fairly regular hours from 10 am till 8 p.m., six days a
week - sometimes a shop is closed just because it's slow
that day! Restaurants start serving from 7.30 a.m. or so
until 10.00 pm. Government offices and banks operate
from 8 am till 3 p.m., Monday to Thursday, and 8 am till
12 p.m. on Fridays.
Getting Around
Lombok
Traveling in Lombok is much more relaxed than Bali but
the roads tend to be narrower (2 lanes with passing in
both directions) and once you get out of the main
tourist sections, not as well maintained. Whilst we
wouldn't recommend anyone rent a self drive car in Bali
- in Lombok you can, if you're a bit adventurous, get
around on your own quite nicely.
Still
the byword is Caution. Traffic moves quite slowly
and you can come up on a cidomo (horse drawn
cart) quite quickly without realizing it. Also, when you
put cidomos together with pedestrians, bicycles, tour
buses, trucks, livestock and assorted immovable objects
in the middle of roads that are not well marked with
traffic controls that are often ignored and little - if
any - enforcement of rules that may exist - you have one
of the most creative driving experieces imaginable. Pay
attention - especially at night !
Metered taxis are now available in Lombok. Easily
recognizable by their blue color, they are surprisingly
inexpensive compared to other private transport options.
Also be advised that if you have an accident and there
is an injury to a local person you will not be able to
leave until the matter is cleared up. In the long run it
is usually better to hire a car with a driver, enjoy the
scenery and arrive at your destination relaxed. It
usually costs only about US$ 10.00 more per day to hire
a driver with your rental vehicle than without - so you
be the judge.
That
said, the more adventurous visitor may want to
explore Lombok by motorcycle. If you do choose to do so
be advised that you will need a motorcycle driver's
license - if you don't have one you may get one at the
Police station and you need to wear a helmet (the
police just love tourists who flaunt this rule).
Another interesting way to discover Lombok is by Bemo
(the small covered carry vans careening about). No
better way to mix with the locals - Very cheap but
there's no airconditioning and the bemos can get
crowded. That said, make sure you understand the price
before you get in - locals seem to have one price,
tourists another - you might just find taxis cheaper.
Last but not least are cidomos (2 wheeled horse drawn
buggies). More a tourist thing in Senggigi at night but
a staple of transportation for locals in Mataram and
elsewhere during the day.
Transportation
Public Transport:
Public buses operate
between main towns throughout Lombok. They are not
air-conditioned and can be quite run down and crowded
though they are a very cheap and good means of traveling
between towns for those on a budget. Prices are fixed
and beware!! Indonesians do not travel well on buses.
Bemos or Taxis:
Metered taxis operate in
the Senggigi area and are quite cheap. Bemos, or small
vans can be found in most towns and will take you
anywhere at a price to be negotiated. Make sure you set
a price before getting in.
Cidomos:
The
cheapest and the most fun way to travel short distances
in Lombok is by cidomo , a locally designed horse-drawn
cart. These can be found everywhere , even on the small
Gili Islands
Car and Motor Bike Hire:
The roads
in Lombok are generally quite good and traffic is fairly easy to drive in, even
in the cities of Lombok. On the country
roads the main traffic is often cidomos or motorbikes.
To hire a car in Lombok a valid international drivers license is
required.
Electricity:
The power supply throughout
Indonesia is 220 volts. Some large hotels have adaptors,
but adaptors can be purchased from most Duty Free stores
before traveling.
Food and Water:
Food in
Lombok can be one of the highlights of your stay. There are many excellent
restaurants, and some have quite a good range of meals
for vegetarians. As well as delicious local dishes,
western style meals are available almost everywhere in
Lombok. Water from the taps
is not healthy to drink. Water can be purchased in
sealed bottles and is available everywhere, larger
hotels usually have drinking water in flasks in the
room. Water served in restaurants with your meal is also
fit to drink.
Health:
Malaria is
found in some parts of Lombok, though it is considered safe around the
Senggigi region. Please check with your doctor or
Traveller Medical Vaccination Centre in your state for
advise.
Backpacking:
Lombok is a great place to
backpack around quite easily. Most budget hotels or
losmens around the countryside have very basic
facilities and bathrooms. The ones recommended by
PT. LOMBOK TROPIC HOLIDAYS INDONESIA are chosen as clean, reliable and friendly, but
are still quite basic. Often they do not have soap or
toilet paper so it is wise to always travel with these
items yourself.
Mosquitoes
can be a nuisance in some areas and malaria is present,
so a light mosquito net and repellent is also good to
carry, plus you should also speak to your local doctor
or medical centre for details.
We
offers a variety
of means of traveling around- local transport, Perama
backpacker shuttle bus, or private vehicle with their
local operator in Lombok.
While their tour buses are slightly more expensive, you
will be accompanied by one of their experienced local
guides. They can be of great assistance particularly in
the country , and can take you to places off the normal
transport routes. Please also note, some insurance
policies do not cover transport by public vehicle, so
please ensure you check this before traveling, as some
companies will take no responsibility for any injury,
loss or damage incurred while utilizing local public
transport if this is what you choose.
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